TUDOR GENEVE CHRONOGRAPH 79390P FULL SET + 2nd DIAL

The history of Tudor is a testimony of audacity, resilience, and the pursuit of watchmaking excellence at a fair price. Conceived by the visionary founder of Rolex as an accessible yet equally robust alternative, the brand has forged its own legacy, stepping out of its older sibling’s shadow to become one of the most respected and fastest-growing manufactures in the world. For decades, Tudor watches have accompanied polar explorers, combat divers, and military pilots, proving that reliability and Swiss quality can be within reach of all those who dare to challenge convention.

Origins and Foundation

The seed of Tudor was planted in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the entrepreneurial genius who had already made Rolex a symbol of prestige. His vision was clear: to create a new brand that, in his own words, offered “accurate timekeeping at moderate prices,” sharing Rolex’s technology and quality philosophy but at a more accessible price. He registered the name “The Tudor” in 1926, and the brand appeared in the public record on February 17 of that same year. The first Tudor watches were produced in the 1920s, during the economic boom known as the Roaring Twenties, a time marked by optimism and innovation that imbued the spirit of the new manufacture.

In 1936, Hans Wilsdorf took full control of the brand, solidifying his idea of establishing a high-quality alternative at a lower price. During this period, the Tudor rose appeared on the dial, a symbol of the British Royal House representing the union between Swiss engineering and noble design.

The Birth of an Independent Brand and the Tudor Oyster Prince

True operational independence arrived on March 6, 1946, when Wilsdorf founded Montres Tudor S.A., giving the brand its own entity and structure. Shortly after, in 1952, Tudor launched the Oyster Prince, a line that would be crucial in establishing its reputation. This watch incorporated two of the technical features that had made Rolex famous: the water and dust-proof Oyster case, and the Perpetual self-winding mechanism. Hans Wilsdorf personally endorsed this new product, stating that these advantages, previously exclusive to Rolex, were now shared by Tudor, signaling the magnitude of his faith in the new watch.

To demonstrate the ruggedness of the Oyster Prince, Tudor organized an innovative advertising campaign showing men working in extreme conditions with a Tudor on their wrist. Tests included watches worn by a miner during 252 hours of manual excavation, exposed to 30 hours of continuous vibration with a jackhammer, and worn by a motorcycle rider for 1,600 kilometers of racing. In the same year of its launch, 26 Tudor Oyster Prince watches accompanied the British Scientific Expedition to Greenland organized by the Royal Navy, demonstrating their reliability in the harsh conditions of the Arctic.

The First Diving Watches and Military Collaboration (1954-1980)

The year 1954 was a milestone in Tudor’s history. The brand introduced its first professional diving watch, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, reference 7922. Designed to meet demanding criteria of durability, reliability, and precision at an affordable price, this watch quickly became an indispensable tool for professionals. With a waterproof case with screw-down back and crown, 100-meter water resistance, a rotating bezel, and large luminescent markers, the Tudor Submariner was a technically capable instrument.

The Submariner’s reputation for robustness caught the attention of navies worldwide. Starting in the late 1950s, the French National Navy began equipping its combat swimmers with Tudor Submariner watches. These elite units, such as the prestigious Commando Hubert, used the watches in extremely harsh conditions for decades. The watches supplied to the French navy had the initials M.N. engraved on the case back, followed by the last two digits of the year of acquisition. The United States Navy (US Navy) also adopted the Tudor Submariner, engraving “U.S.N.” on their case backs. This endorsement from elite military bodies solidified Tudor’s reputation as a reliable and robust tool watch manufacturer.

In 1969, Tudor introduced two elements that would become brand hallmarks. The Tudor rose was replaced by a new logo: a shield, symbolizing solidity, technology, and absolute reliability. The iconic “Snowflake” hands were born, a square-shaped hand with a large luminescent area that improved underwater readability, becoming a distinctive feature of Tudor dive watches.

Tudor Chronographs: Oysterdate and Big Block

While dive watches were their calling card, Tudor also made its mark in the world of chronographs. In 1970, the brand introduced its first manual-winding mechanical chronograph, the Oysterdate. In 1976, Tudor took a step forward with the third generation of its chronographs, the Prince Oysterdate. These were the brand’s first chronographs equipped with an automatic movement. As the case became thicker to accommodate the automatic winding rotor, these models were nicknamed “Big Block” by collectors. Inside beat the legendary Valjoux 7750 movement, a robust and reliable caliber with 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a cam and oscillating pinion, which remains one of the most-used automatic chronographs in history.

The Modern Renaissance and the Black Bay Era

Despite its solid reputation, the brand languished during the 1990s and early 2000s, in the shadow of its sister Rolex. However, starting in 2007, a profound restructuring and repositioning process under the motto “Born to Dare” marked the beginning of a new chapter.

The year 2012 was a turning point. Tudor launched the Heritage Black Bay, a watch that was not merely a reissue but a modern reinterpretation of the aesthetic codes of its legendary Submariner models of the past. The Black Bay captured the essence of Tudor’s history, combining the domed dial of the 1954 model, the imposing “Big Crown” of 1958, and the “Snowflake” hands of the 1969 model. Its red bezel and neo-vintage aesthetic were a resounding success, resonating with a new generation of enthusiasts and marking the beginning of a new era for the brand.

The Black Bay collection became the cornerstone of Tudor’s revival, expanding with multiple variants (Black Bay 58, Black Bay Bronze, Black Bay Chrono, and more) and consolidating a style that blends nostalgia for the past with the most demanding engineering standards.

The In-House Manufacture and Technical Achievement

The most significant step in Tudor’s evolution came in 2015. The brand announced its first Manufacture Caliber in its nearly 70-year history. This movement, part of the MT56 (Mouvement Tudor) family, was a technical milestone demonstrating the maturity and ambition of the house. These calibers offered a 70-hour power reserve, 28,800 vibrations per hour frequency, antimagnetic silicon balance spring, and were certified as chronometers by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). The first model to feature this new movement was the North Flag, a contemporary explorer’s watch, quickly followed by the Pelagos, a professional diver’s watch with 500-meter water resistance.

The manufacture movement was later extended to the Black Bay collection, elevating its technical status and appeal. These calibers, made in collaboration with Kenissi (a movement manufacturing company of which Tudor is a founding partner), guarantee superior chronometric performance and extraordinary robustness.

Tudor Today

Today, Tudor is one of the fastest-growing brands in the watch industry, having completely emancipated itself from Rolex’s shadow to build its own very solid identity. Its catalog is structured in clearly defined collections that honor its heritage while looking to the future:

• Black Bay: The flagship collection, encompassing a wide range of neo-vintage style dive watches and chronographs. From the Black Bay 54 (37mm) inspired by the early 1954 Submariners, to the Black Bay Chrono with the manufacture caliber MT5813 with column wheel.

• Pelagos: The cutting-edge professional diving line, with titanium cases, water resistance of up to 500 meters, and a more technical and utilitarian aesthetic. The collaboration with the French National Navy has been revitalized with the Pelagos FXD, a watch with fixed strap bars developed specifically for combat swimmers.

• 1926: A dress collection, launched in 2018, paying homage to the brand’s founding year with classic and elegant designs.

• Royal: A line of sports watches with integrated bracelet, steel cases, and date and day options.

Conclusion

The story of Tudor watches is the tale of a successful emancipation. From its origins as the “little sister” of Rolex, conceived to offer the same quality at a more accessible price, to its consolidation as an independent manufacture with its movements and unmistakable style, Tudor has come a long way. With each model, the brand demonstrates that daring to break with the established is the path to building a lasting legacy. For watch enthusiasts, a Tudor is not just a watch: it is a symbol of audacity, a fragment of the history of polar exploration and military diving, and a testament that Swiss excellence can be within reach of all who dare to wear it.

TEMPPUS. All rights reserved.