UNIVERSAL GENEVE, ALTESSE ULTRAPLANO 5 mm

Brand

Universal Genève‎ ‎

Model

Highness‎ ‎

Gender

Man‎

Decade

1960s‎ ‎

Year of manufacture

1967

Serial number

542 101

Case code

3005 788

Movement

Manual rope‎

Crystal

Original PLexiglás‎ ‎

Dial

Brown and green tones, blurred‎ ‎

Corona

Yours truly‎ ‎

Case material

Gold-plated steel‎ ‎

Diameter without crown

30.5 mm‎ ‎

Diameter with crown

31.5 mm‎ ‎

Lug-to-lug length

36 mm

Thickness

5 mm‎ ‎ ‎

Strap width

16 mm

Strap material

Genuine leather‎ ‎

Strap color

Brown‎

Closure/buckle

Steel‎

Condition of the watch

Well, with logical signs of the passage of time.‎ ‎

Case/Box

Yes, generic.‎ ‎

Documentation

Free Certificate of Authenticity available on request‎

The story of Universal Genève began in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, when watchmakers Ulysse Perret and Numa-Emile Descombes established the company under the name Universal Watch. From the outset, the brand distinguished itself through its dedication to precision and its production of complete wristwatches—an uncommon focus at a time when pocket watches dominated the market.

Early Chronographs and a Commitment to Innovation

In the early 20th century, Universal Watch specialized in crafting high-quality chronographs, becoming one of the first brands to design chronograph movements exclusively for wristwatches. By the 1920s and 1930s, the company was recognized as a leader in sports and aviation chronographs, blending advanced mechanics with innovative designs.

Iconic Models and Global Expansion

During the 1930s, Universal Genève gained renown with the introduction of iconic models like the Compax in 1936, a pioneering chronograph with multiple subdials. This success was followed by even more sophisticated models such as the Tri-Compax in 1944, featuring complications like a moon phase indicator, full calendar, and chronograph. These timepieces cemented Universal Genève’s reputation as a master of complex yet elegant chronographs.

Popularity Among Celebrities and Prominent Figures

By the 1940s and 1950s, Universal Genève had achieved international fame, attracting high-profile admirers like General Charles de Gaulle and U.S. President Harry S. Truman. The brand became synonymous with sophistication and precision, establishing itself as a symbol of prestige among enthusiasts of luxury timepieces.

The Quartz Crisis and Challenges of the 1970s

The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s posed significant challenges for Universal Genève, as affordable and precise quartz watches disrupted the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry. Financial difficulties and changes in ownership led to a decline in the brand’s market prominence.

Revival and Enduring Legacy

Although it has not regained the influence of its peak years, Universal Genève remains highly valued by collectors and horology aficionados. Vintage models such as the Compax and Tri-Compax are celebrated for their mechanical complexity and timeless design.

Today, Universal Genève represents a legacy of innovation and elegance, recognized for its contributions to the history of chronographs and its enduring impact on classic watchmaking.


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